In most cases it is an insufficiently tight belt or a worn out belt. It is necessary to check the condition of the system for a cause or one of the pulleys may be faulty.
Most likely it is a wheel bearing, particularly when the humming intensity increases with higher speed or in curves.
The problem is usually in faulty or damaged homokinetic joint, which transfers force from the transmission system to wheels. This problem is usually accompanied by cracked protective rubber boots of the homokinetic joint, which cause its “drying” and contamination which subsequently leads to its damage.
It may be caused by a faulty bearing in the gearbox. If there is a rasping sound during changing gears, synchronizers may be faulty. The solution includes gearbox repair, replacement of faulty parts, or potential remanufacturing. The gearbox repair should never be underestimated.
If there is a wailing sound when the clutch is in, or potentially transferred sound from the gearbox, the clutch bearing may be faulty.
Worn out dual-mass flywheel. We definitely recommend not hesitate and underestimate its replacement. You may come into more troubles with damaged gearbox. The dual-mass flywheel is a movable part, which, when damaged, may transfer vibrations into the whole vehicle and into the main gearbox input shaft.
It is probably a faulty pulley at one of the belts, or a bearing on an aggregate, air-conditioning compressor, or alternator. In this case it is necessary to identify the problem correctly and find out whether the humming sound does not come from the motor timming
In most cases worn out or deformed brake discs are to blame, or potentially their incorrect installation. The solution includes a replacement or proper repair of brake discs. If the fault recurs, there is usually a problem with wheel bearings, wheel bases or a faulty ball joint.
In this case it is necessary to identify the type of knocking precisely. It may just require adjustment of valve timing or their hydraulic valve lifter. First of all it is necessary to check the motor oil level, but there can be a more serious motor fault, e.g. steering fault, problems with one of the pulleys, a water pump which may make a similar sound in some cases and when seriously damaged.
Faulty front axle ball joints or steering tie rods, unbalanced wheels or damaged disc? The vibrations may also be caused by unsuitable wheel bolts, since aluminium discs often require different bolts than steel discs.
Regarding vehicles with a hydraulic limitation of valve lashes, the cause is often a lack of oil, potentially faulty hydraulic valve lifters. Valve lashes need to be adjusted manually for older vehicles.
In this case there can be a whole range of faults. Regarding petrol motors, the problem may stem from spark plugs, their cables, ignition coils, or injectors. In any case it is always necessary to visit a garage when cylinders misfire. In these cases the vehicle catalytic converter may be destroyed or other serious complications may occur.
The fault in the Antilock braking system may be cause by a faulty ABS sensor, cracked ABS detecting ring, broken cable or in extreme cases faulty ABS control unit. In most cases the problem is in the ABS detector. In case the ABS warning light is on, the Antilock braking system is out of operation and the vehicle brakes as if it wasn’t equipped with it. We recommend to deal with the problem as soon as possible.
This warning light may indicate a whole range of faults, sometimes being accompanied by poor motor operation or lower power. In all cases we recommend checking in a garage.
Similarly to ABS fault, the electronic stabilization programme fault puts this vehicle system out of operation and the vehicle behaves as if it wasn’t equipped with this assistant. We require the ESP fault to be professionally diagnosed and repaired, so that the vehicle stability control is maintained.
If the vehicle doesn’t charge, it is usually the alternator fault to blame. Visit a garage immediately, the vehicle will stop working very soon, after the accumulator is depleted.
If the red warning light in the shape of an oil can doesn’t go off after starting, it usually means the motor does not lubricate properly. In order to prevent serious motor damage, it is recommended to stop immediately and have your vehicle towed to a garage. However, it is necessary to distinguish an orange oil level that indicates a less serious problem, i.e. low oil level which needs to be refilled.
This warning light shows a glowing fault in older vehicles, however, it indicates electronics fault for most vehicles. It is recommended to visit a garage, particularly with new vehicles. This warning light may also indicate injectors fault. In any case, longer operation with an active glow warning light of vehicle with a DPF may cause its damage or clogging.
Regarding this issue, it is usually a connector fault or a cabling fault. Even the airbag itself may be faulty. In order to identify a fault in the airbag system, we usually need to make diagnostics and measurements.